Located on Amoy Street but with the entrance via the side of the shophouse building is Travis Masiero’s latest F&B venture - @nixtasg. A stone’s throw...
Located on Amoy Street but with the entrance via the side of the shophouse building is Travis Masiero’s latest F&B venture - @nixtasg. A stone’s throw from his first, @lukesoysterbar & Chop House, this cosy establishment serves authentic Mexican cuisine that’s designed for sharing. Most impressively, the kitchen team led by Chefs @boonteow and @tan_yew_wei_rex, creates key items from scratch. Most notably the #chips in the “Chips & Salsa” ($8), which they make daily by grinding, pressing, searing and air-drying the heirloom white corn from @masienda. Our friend @tristan.parlour, whom we were dining with, loves avocados, so we also had the “#Guacamole Nixta” ($20). I really liked how roasted baby tomatoes were added to its creamy goodness.
Based on the recommendation of the Manager, we went for the “Tlayuda de la Casa” ($20) from the section in the menu entitled “Heirloom Corn Masa”. As it featured roasted kernels of corn, epazote, queso fresco and a drizzle of herb oil, you bet beautiful flavours reigned on the very thin, crispy-chewy base.
However, I must say it was outshone ever so slightly by the “#Quesadilla Oaxaca” ($22). Filled with red chorizo, crushed avocado and fried potato, it turned out to be the flavourbomb I didn’t know we needed. A must-try for sure.
It was tough deciding which of the wood-fired grilled items to order but the “Duck #Barbacoa” ($48) became my eventual pick. BEST DECISION EVER! Wrapped with herbs and green chilli in leaves and roasted, the meat was insanely flavourful and tender. We got to build our own #tacos with it because this dish was accompanied by a stack of warm corn tortillas (housemade of course) and a plate of white onions, tomatillo salsa and fresh lime. I would say, for me, this was the highlight of the meal.
Tristan was in the mood for fish. Thus, we selected the “Whole Fish a la Contramar” ($87) to share too. The European seabass came smothered in two wonderful sauces - a green one of parsley, cilantro, garlic, olive oil and epazote, and a rich, smoky red starring roasted guajillo (a type of Mexican pepper). Taste-wise, there was no faulting this dish.
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epazote 在 Dr. Shu 的旅遊文化攝影筆記 Facebook 的最讚貼文
到了Puebla,當然要品嘗最具有代表性的摩蕾(Mole)。
Dr. Shu跟據 Google 地圖的推薦,選擇 El Viejo Rosario,意思是舊花環。
這是家具有殖民特色的餐廳。兩層樓的建築設有中庭與貴賓室。讀者看照片就可一目瞭然。
我們提到摩蕾的原料有辣椒與巧克力。這兩種都原產於美洲。
看過 Dr. Shu 對巧克力的介紹,應該不會對這種我們認為是甜點原料的食材作為正餐佐料感到意外。
正宗的Mole就是以巧克力作為主要原料。
讀者比對巧克力與 Mole 的顏色就可以體會。
不過與一般甜點巧克力不同的是,這兒不是用糖來刺激味蕾、消除苦味,而是用大量的香料。
這就讓 Mole 還殘存一點苦味,但是這恰到好處的苦味正好刺激了人體裡的內啡肽(Endorpin,請參考Against the Grain: How Agriculture Has Hijacked Civilization),配合辣椒,不僅讓人的食慾大增,而且產生征服感,也難怪位高權重的總督會大快朵頤。
不過並不是所有的 Mole 都大量使用巧克力。聽說與 Puebla 爭奪 Mole 第一品牌都市的 Oaxaca 就不怎麼用巧克力,而墨西哥另外一種美食 – Guacamole,就是使用鰐梨(Avocado)而不是巧克力。
Mole除了辣椒與巧克力之外,到底還採用什麼原料呢?
說來真的嚇人。我們分類說明:
一, 種子與堅果:南瓜子、芝麻、杏仁、花生、胡桃子、松果。
二, 茄科植物:黏果酸漿(tomatillo)、番茄。這兩種都是美洲原生。墨西哥的綠辣椒醬就使用tomatillo。
三, 香草類:土荆芥(epazote)、聖葉(hoja santa)、 牛至(oregano )、百里香(thyme)。後兩者原生於歐亞大陸,法國菜或是義大利菜也常使用,甚至也作為精油。
讀者可能知道他們的味道。但是前兩者卻完全是美洲原生,而且至今在拉丁美洲以外的地區也不常使用,這就讓饕客想要品嘗Mole只有到拉丁美洲、甚至是墨西哥的Puebla才可以享受了。
四, 乾果:葡萄乾、無花果、鳳梨、蘋果。
五, 香料:牙買加胡椒(Jamaica Pepper)、薑黃(Cumin)、丁子香(Clove)、肉桂(Cinnamon)。
後面幾種是歐亞大陸的產物,但牙買加胡椒就加勒比海區域的特產,它綜合了豆蔻、肉桂、丁子香的味道。
而講究的廚師可能會以野肉桂(Canella)取代一般肉桂,野肉桂又是加勒比海特產。
六,大蒜與洋蔥。
相信讀者看到這兒已經茫了。
可想而知,這道總匯醬汁結合了各種香料養身之道、各種酸甜苦辣對神經系統的刺激、各種口感對味蕾的挑戰。
「飽滿」「濃郁」「醇厚」「鮮爽」「嗆辣」「豐腴」……說真的,語言文字實在難以形容。
#mexico #puebla #mole #drshu #travel #tourism #drshutravel
#墨西哥 #摩蕾 #旅遊 #旅行 #深度旅遊