【風土各表：Rioja葡萄酒的反思】

Bodega Lanzaga是一間強調風土的Rioja酒廠，不過Telmo Rodríguez自帶主角光環，目前整個西班牙他的幾個相關酒廠風風火火，加上他長的實在帥，說他是新一代西班牙釀酒師的代表應該很中肯。

在西班牙談風土是人人有話講也人人霧煞煞，從Tempranillo談風土的話或許是個切入點：Tempranillo在西班牙很普遍，但不是適於各種土壤類型，首先Tempranillo適合Limestone，再一個重要的原因是同樣是Limestone，較低的雨量一般造成土壤pH值更高而更適合Tempranillo。也因此以Tempranillo的品質來看區域，通常會說Rioja Alavesa為佳，此區主力土壤為Clay-limestone calcareous，年雨量500mm，優質葡萄園一般在450m以上，當然也要看座向位置等其他條件。不過任何一個偉大地塊若僅憑「資料」，無論那一國還是那個產區，都不足以說明其偉大之處。今天喝到的單一園我也沒拿到完整的Soil profile與地形圖，但邏輯判斷總歸有點幫助。

Telmo Rodríguez在Bodega Lazaga想表達是相同於布根地的風土哲學，他也不是唯一的一個，這也是RIoja公會新制中改變最大也最被詬病的一塊：公會一次提出了144個單一園Viñedo Singular (VS)，實際上是無法落實。第三波Rioja的風土潮／單一園通常由各個釀酒師提出作品，通常量少又不見得有年份穩定性與連續性，對市場而言的現狀是：沒喝過／不知道什麼風格／很貴（跟同區相比）／產量很少／分數高／只有酒評家在讚聲（酒評家在此時很重要）。而這144個葡萄園還不是每個都有authorited的作品，是不是很搞不懂呢？

根據National Post 2016年由John Szabo MS執筆的一篇Telmo Rodríguez專訪，他的單一園觀點似乎以敵對我們熟知的Rioja風格為訴求：他認為La Rioja Alta、Castillo Ygay和Lopez de Heredia都是工業釀酒廠，大型生產設施，與該地區早期的傳統幾乎沒有關係；他認為波爾多的技術資本引入摧毀了Rioja的真實風格，是一場錯誤；他說「Rioja從此走錯方向」。我這裡沒有引用他所有的觀點，但我想問的是：今天Rioja的「傳統」風格是否真的一無是處？是否真的完全沒有反映Rioja的風土？跨園跨區跨品種混釀真的這麼罪大惡極？Rioja的風格難道一點沒有西班牙的文化與民族性格關聯？酒質好不好是否也要考慮政治正確？

Rioja據資料有超過一萬個葡萄園，可以標示單一園Viñedo Singular (VS)需遵守下列法規：

★ 葡萄藤必須35年以上
★ 葡萄園最大產量比一般Rioja法定要求低至少20％
★ 葡萄重量與葡萄汁的最大比例為1/0.65
★ 必須人工採收
★ 葡萄酒必須通過兩次品嚐並獲得標準以上的分數才能標示單一園

所以在技術性要求上完全沒問題，問題在於各個地塊的風格到底是什麼？技術性要求並不等同風格與風土。你不會因為鍋子大火力強台灣豬貴貴就說菜一定好吃吧？如果認真追究，某單一園在過去根本沒有釀造而只是賣葡萄給酒廠，現在的釀造者卻說他「承繼」「發揚」 地塊的榮耀？會不會太矯情了點？

我是不知道這個報導是不是完全傳達了他的意思，但至少我們知道Telmo Rodríguez選擇留在公會制度下（細思極恐）。2017年通過的Rioja單一園法定制度，就是他聯合當地150多名釀酒師、酒商和葡萄酒作家聯名向政府請願後得到的。不過2015年離開了公會制度管轄的Artadi毋寧可作為另一個參考：Artadi的Valdegines與La Poza來自谷地兩側有數十公尺落差的葡萄園，一直是我認為Rioja「單一園」風格的典範，各年份具有連續性的辨識度，個別作品的水準亦不俗。我覺得任何的「單一園」，無論在哪個國家或產區，最珍貴的是累積而成的「辨識度」，是一個具體且長遠的「獨特」風味，不然是不是辜負大家對「單一園」的期待了呢！

風土不是是非題，風土應該是一個隨時間而拓展的觀點而不是一言堂。先有「單一園」再去生產合規的作品有點像是先射箭再畫靶，若是地塊有長期連續可辨識的風格再劃歸制度中是不是更有說服力？西班牙已經有了個不算成功的Vino de Pago，若是人為因素無法突破，制度還要考慮勢力利益，那麼制度就難以保證其目的了。也許公會以及所有期待Rioja Single Vineyard的各位可以多思考這些單一園是Certified還是Candidates。

【本日最喜歡La Estrsda 2017 】
Deep purple. Refreshing black pepper, black cherry. Concentrated black fruits, straight, deep in phenolic extraction, a hint of raw soybeans and blossoms. Finesse acidity, lingering complexity, and concentration in quiet. Not enough integration now. Delicate, subtle. Need more 5+ yo to develop. 2024~2048

El Verlado 2017
80% Garnacha. Deep purple. Cool herbaceous, rose pedal, fine and delicate, polished, red flower and red fruits. Slim, juicy but bold in tannin. Not enough in length and complexity now. Need 3+ yo develop. 2024~2034

Tabuerniga 2017
Deep purple, ferment beans, sun-dry vegetable, black pepper, and other pungent spices. Polished, solid, fresh black fruits show some clean in depth. Could expect its development in another 5+ yo.

仲有兩星期就到預產期，有幸被邀請去星光照相館 @glow.inuf 影張 Aura Photography 睇吓自己嘅氣場係點樣，估唔到成張都係藍色。🤣🤣 雖然我唔係好識睇，亦對 Aura 呢家野認識唔深，但睇到自己氣場嘅顏色，再睇埋係代表乜嘢意思之後，的確會有種能肯定自己嘅奇妙感覺。

Royal blue is related to communication, self-expression, intuition, and clarity. People with blue aura share a strong connection with the unknown and enjoy the depth of life.

They use their imagination, wisdom, intuition, and creativity to express themselves. They value honesty, self-expression, good speech and communication skills.

Blue energy is very calm and stable. A person with a blue aura is trustworthy and will be by your side through the ups and the downs. These people have a relaxing and grounding presence that many will admire in a partner. 💙

多謝 @olivewongchui 嘅邀請！

<脫口秀小訣竅中英翻譯-靈感篇>

文長注意!

之前小歐在脫口秀社團po了外國佛心大神脫口秀演員Gary Gulman，在twitter上連載的366個脫口秀小訣竅。

小妹就認領了靈感篇來翻譯。以下為22個小訣竅的中英文對照，若有翻的不盡理想的地方，請留言詳述，我會再看怎麼修改。原文和網誌版會放在留言處，方便大家查看。

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Ideas
靈感

Tip No. 41: You know those quirky little things you do and think? Collect them in a file or on paper. Even if you’re a storyteller, you can use these as details to add depth and distinction to your jokes.
你了解自己做或想的古怪小事嗎? 把他們記錄在紙上或檔案夾裡。即使你是講故事的人，也可以將這些內容作為細節，以增加笑話的深度和特色。

GARY'S FAVORITES
Gary(原作者)的最愛
Tip No. 45: Don’t Hoard Jokes
Don’t worry about “burning” material on a special or album. Hoarding jokes may signal to your brain that you’re out of ideas. “You can’t use up creativity. The more you use, the more you have.” — Maya Angelou.
不要囤積笑話。不要怕在演出或專場用光自己累積的材料。囤積笑話會對你的大腦發出信號，暗示你已經沒有想法。如同Maya Angelou所說:”你無法耗盡創意。 你使用的越多，你擁有的就越多。”

Gary’s thoughts on Tip No. 45: This attitude has been crucial to an unprecedented streak of creativity over the last two years. I’ve written four hours of material, which is almost as much as I wrote in my first 23 years of comedy. Most important has been my health, this idea may be second.
Gary對此建議的想法: 在過去兩年中，這種態度對我的前所未有的創造力，有著至關重要的影響。我已經寫了四個小時的素材，這幾乎與我前23年的喜劇寫作一樣多。最重要的是我的健康，這個想法則排名第二位。

Tip No. 62: Look for inspiration everywhere. Paintings, music, poetry, rap, novels, nonfiction, short stories, theater, philosophy, etc. can all provide a spark for creativity. Cross-pollinate your work with broad influences and watch your creativity grow.
在各處尋找靈感。繪畫、音樂、詩歌、饒舌、小說、非小說、短篇故事、戲劇、哲學..等，都可以為創造力提供火花。以廣泛的影響力對你的工作進行異花授粉(原文:cross pollination，藉由風或昆蟲從別的花獲得繁衍的花粉)，並觀察你的創造力增長。

Tip No. 63: Write it all down while the coffee is still telling you you’re mighty. Reread after you’ve turned back into Dr. Banner (yes he’s a genius, but not as self-confident in that condition). That buzz is so valuable but needs editing.
在咖啡發揮效果告訴你”你超棒”的時期，把所有想法寫下來。當你回復成原本的自我 (原文: Dr. Banner，也就是尚未變身成綠巨人浩克的班納博士，是個缺乏自信的天才)時，重讀一次剛才的寫作。思緒激昂(原文:buzz，也有微醺、很鏘的意思)很珍貴，但需要編輯。

GARY'S FAVORITES
Gary(原作者)的最愛
Tip No. 90: After a Good Set, Brainstorm
You just had a great set. Instead of celebrating, use that hour or so after when the synapses are still firing and your confidence is soaring to voice record or write down the ideas that pop up during that especially fertile creative time.
如果你剛完成一場精采的表演，不用太早慶祝，要在大腦突觸仍在觸發、信心爆發、靈感特別豐腴的創作時間裡，把突然出現的想法錄音或寫下，再多花一個小時左右的時間繼續創作吧。

Gary’s thoughts on Tip No. 90: Huge help in making jokes that work longer and coming up with tangents and inspired ideas.
Gary對此建議的想法: 這建議在創作笑話的過程中提供巨大幫助，並提供變化和啟發性的想法。

Tip No. 92: Notice where you do your best thinking. The shower? Running? Listening to music? Not listening to music? Driving? Walking? Make sure to put yourself in the places where you’re doing your best thinking as frequently as possible.
你有注意過你在哪個’場景最能好好思考嗎。沐浴時？跑步時？聽音樂時？不聽音樂時？開車時?走路時？請盡量把自己放在最適合思考的場域。

Tip No. 132: I think you can limit frustration and discouragement by writing just a page on a new premise before trying it out onstage. See if there’s anything there before you spend a day on a new joke. But if you’re truly excited by the new idea, keep going!
我認為你可以在上台試笑話之前，先寫一頁的新前提，這可以限制你的挫敗感和沮喪感。在你花一整天開發新笑話之前，先研究前提是否可挖掘。但是，如果你真心對這個新點子感到興奮，那就放手去做吧!

Tip No. 143: Listen to strangers’ conversations. (I tell myself it’s not impolite if they’re being super-loud.) I got “How Dottie is that?” when a supercilious woman named Jodi bragged “How Jodi is that?” “So Jodi,” her friend replied.
偷聽陌生人的對談(我都告訴自己偷聽並不是沒禮貌的行徑，是他們講話太大聲了)。我有一次聽到一個名叫Jodi的膚淺女人吹噓"How Jodi is that?"，她朋友回覆:"So Jodi"，我因此想出了我的 “How Dottie is that?” 笑話。

Tip No. 157: Need new joke ideas? Be sensitive. If you’re uncomfortable with that word, use “irritable” (or grow up). A lot of good comedy comes from reaction to injustice or discomfort large and small, which requires being hypersensitive to those feelings.
需要新的笑話創意嗎？保持敏感。如果你對這個詞不滿意，請使用“煩躁”(或成長)。 許多優秀喜劇源自於對不平等或不適的大大小小的反應，產生這些感覺都需要保持敏感。

Tip No. 217: “All art is autobiographical. The pearl is the oyster’s autobiography.” — Federico Fellini. Purposefully mine your personal history for your act. Your life is a wellspring. Dig deep.
Federico Fellini說過:“所有藝術都是自傳。珍珠是牡蠣的自傳。”有目的得挖掘你的個人經歷，以作為你的演出。你的生活是靈感之源。請深入挖掘。

Tip No. 241: Many of your favorite writers include the same themes/subjects/objects/interests repeatedly in their work. Don’t be afraid to return again and again to your passions and obsessions to explore and expound.
你最愛的許多作家，都會在他們的作品裡重複探討相同的主題/目標/對象/興趣。不要害怕在你的熱情和沉迷之處，一次又一次得重複探索和闡述。

Tip No. 285: Explore unusual angles in a joke. Example: Examine things from the POV of a child or an Expert. My man Jimmy P and I still laugh over his “Martian response to high school football practice: Why are the hard-heads (players) taking orders from the small soft-heads (coach)?”
在笑話中探索不尋常的觀點。例如：從孩子或專家的視角觀看事物。我和我的兄弟Jimmy P仍會為他的笑話大笑:“火星人對高中足球訓練的反應：為什麼硬頭(球員)會從小型軟頭(教練)那裡得到命令？”

Tip No. 297: One of the miracles of comedy is that you can get redemption for suffering, small and large, by making something funny with it. When you are ready, try to write something funny about your mistakes, setbacks, or even tragedies.
喜劇的奇蹟之一是，藉由使事情變得有趣，你可以從大大小小的苦難中得到救贖。 當你準備就緒時，請嘗試寫一些有關你的錯誤、挫折甚至悲劇的有趣訊息。

Tip No. 298: Skim your life for the unusual events and activities that you can’t believe you were a part of or that people can’t believe you were a part of. Then write about it! Back row No. 93 MULLET:
No. 93後衛MULLET: “瀏覽你一生經歷過的、你或別人不敢相信你參與其中的奇特事件和活動。然後把它寫下來吧!“

Tip No. 310: When it comes to solving the puzzles that are our jokes, draw on every area of knowledge, expertise, and talent. It’s so gratifying to use a fact, a lesson, or a memory from elementary school, high school, or elsewhere to fill in the joke.
在解決我們玩笑的難關時，請利用各個領域的常識、專業知識和才能。用小學、高中或其他地方的事實、課業或回憶來充實笑話，會非常令人滿足。

Tip No. 311: Some of your best ideas will come to you in the shower. There’s science behind why it happens. Get a shower notepad if you have trouble remembering your ideas. Don’t listen to music. Listen to your thoughts. Ruminate on tonight’s set or a new joke.
洗澡時，你可能想到一些最好的點子。這現象的發生原因有科學依據。如果你難以記住自己的想法，請準備淋浴記事本。不要聽音樂。聽你的想法。用今晚的場景或一個新的笑話來反思。

Tip No. 313: Try teaching or informing the audience about something through some of your jokes. We love to learn while being entertained and vice versa. You have knowledge? Put it in your act! Just make sure it’s funny.
試試看通過講笑話來教導或告知聽眾新知識吧。我們喜歡在娛樂的同時學習，反之亦然。你有新知識嗎？把它放在你的演出！只要確保它很有趣就行。

Tip No. 327: Going home for Thanksgiving? Take copious notes! Your family is unique. Being reminded of the dynamics and adding new memories will be great resources for your act. “Family isn’t a word. It’s a sentence.”
逢年過節你會回家和家人團聚嗎？做大量筆記！你的家人是獨一無二的。記住動態場景並添加新的記憶，這會是你表演的寶貴資源。“家庭不是一個詞。 而是一個句子。”

Tip No. 331: There are great stories from our lives that we’re not able to translate into stand-up. Don’t throw them out. Collect those stories in a file for radio and TV and other interview situations.
我們生活中有許多很棒的故事，但我們無法將其轉化為脫口秀。可是不要把它們丟掉。要將這些故事收集在資料夾裡，以後在進行廣播和電視或採訪時可能用的到。

Tip No. 340: Volunteer! Especially if you don’t have a day job. There are so many opportunities to help. You will do good and have something new to write about. In NYC we have New York Cares. One year we decorated an elementary school for Halloween.
如果你沒有正職工作，當志工吧！你會有很多機會能幫助別人。你會做得很好，並有新的事情能寫。在紐約，我們設有紐約關懷中心。今年我們為萬聖節裝飾了一所小學。

Tip No. 358: I have recently started audio recording all notes sessions (for projects), and next time I pitch jokes with a friend I will record that too. It’s very helpful. You will be surprised at what you forgot when you listen back. Ask permission first.
我最近開始錄製所有筆記會話(用於專案)的錄音檔，並且下次我與朋友開玩笑時，我也會錄音。這非常有幫助。當你回聽時，你會驚訝於你忘記了什麼。但錄音前請先徵得許可。

Tip No. 360: Spending holidays with kids? Pay attention to them. Listen to them. Take note and embrace their curiosity and enthusiasm within your writing. (Also avoid the “kids these days” writing. It’s lazy.) Merry Christmas from your second favorite long-haired Jew.
和孩子一起度假嗎？注意觀察他們。聽他們說話。寫下你觀察到的東西並注意，並在寫作中懷抱孩子們的好奇心和熱情。(不要流水帳的寫“現在的小屁孩都如何如何”。這很懶。)你第二喜歡的長髮猶太叔叔在此祝你聖誕快樂(註，原作Gary是猶太人)。