瓦拉納西的美很不典型——是嘈雜的、混亂的、不秩序的，但也是友善的、熱情的、極純粹的 . 初來乍到，一再再被這個世俗的可以的聖城給驚訝。人們說在這裡所有的業障因果都將化零，但路邊不斷向觀光客哄抬價格的小販在溫飽之前是否有機會思考這些。牛在印度人心中極為神聖，但在路邊垃圾堆中不斷翻食的一頭頭冷得哆嗦的牛卻怎麼樣也神聖不起來。在火葬祭壇邊本該抱著尊敬的心態，但總是有那一兩個印度人穿梭問著是否願意捐獻，而你也不知這錢最後進了誰的口袋 . 然而習慣了這一切，也漸漸發現這城市可人的一面。在路上時常會有人熱情的點頭、揮手，甚至湊上前攀談幾句；一開始很是不習慣這種往眼裡盯的直視，但後來發現那一眸一笑都是真摯中帶著好奇的，好奇你是誰？好奇你從哪裡來？好奇你背後的故事？然後再予你一個真摯的燦笑祝你安好 . 坐在從達薩斯瓦梅朵河壇沿著恆河逆流而上的小船，看著前方喧鬧卻又有點距離的河岸上的人群，我好像理解了些什麼，也許就是同時參雜了世俗與神聖的極致，才讓瓦拉納西成為印度教中最接近天堂的城市 . . The beauty of Varanasi is everything but ordinary - tumultuous, chaotic, and divergent, yet friendly, passionate and pure . Have been traveling for years, I still got shocked to some extents when I arrived at this secular Holy City - People told me that once you arrived at Varanasi, all your karma will be washed away, but have the vendors selling things with ridiculous prices ever thought of karma? Cows are considered divine in Hinduism, but I cannot even bare to watch when I see them feasting on garbage heaps. When saluting over the cremations at Dashaswmedh Ghat, you still see some guys passing by asking for “donations”, while you never know who will be the one benefiting from the donation, the poor or this guy himself . Yet when I got used to all these hustle and bustle, I gradually discovered how lovely this city is - you see people try to nod their heads towards you, wave their hands to you, or even walk across and start a conversation with you. I cannot deny that at first I felt a bit uncomfortable about their direct looking into my eyes, but I then realized that it’s nothing but just pure genuine curiosity. They are just curious about who you are, where you come from and what the stories live in you. After all, they would just give you a big smile and wish you a good day . Paddling against the Ganges currents toward Assi Ghat, the din seems a bit distant yet still vivid - maybe it is just this pure secularity and sacredness that makes Varanasi the city closest to the God . #ganges #riverganga #varanasi #india #JLworldwanderer