【家庭醫學】～ 攀岩粉 （climbing chalk）

最近都在看奧運的攀岩比賽，大家一定會發現選手們都要把手用粉弄的白白的，那就是今天要介紹的攀岩粉。

雖然它的英文名字是Chalk，也就是粉筆的英文，但成份其實和我們在寫黑板的粉筆不同。

一般使用來寫黑板的粉筆，成份為碳酸鈣（CaCO3）
攀岩使用的粉，主成份則為碳酸鎂（MgCO3）

※ 所以不要為了省錢，去買一盒「粉筆」壓碎來用⋯⋯

不過科學研究中，對於鎂粉是不是因為增加摩擦力，而讓攀岩活動的表現變好，還沒有一致的結論。

像2001年就有一篇文章試圖來分析使用攀岩粉是必需或迷思，研究了15個受試者，分別抓握不同的岩石（頁岩、砂岩、花崗岩），上面有粉和無粉，以及有無水份在上面，再用機器把石頭拉開，去測定使用的力量。

研究結論反而是有粉時會降低磨擦力！和大家直覺上的想法不同⋯⋯而且還提出，真的把手部的水份都吸乾，反而會讓摩擦力下降（其實這個合理，想想我們碰水久了之後，皮膚會變得皺皺的，目的就是為了增加摩擦力；在生活上也會為了數鈔票或推開垃圾袋在手指上沾一點水。）

Li, F-X., S. Margetts, and I. Fowler. "Use of ‘chalk’in rock climbing: sine qua non or myth?." Journal of Sports Sciences 19.6 (2001): 427-432

後來在2012年時，科學家找了11個受試者，使用可以調整傾斜角度的機關，來固定要測試的石頭（石灰岩及砂岩），當受測者抓在上面時，開始增加傾斜角度，直到受測者掉下來。

結果發現顯著增加磨擦係數（石灰岩 +18.7%，砂岩 +21.6%），所以這項研究是支持使用攀岩粉的。
（私心認為這樣比較接近實際使用時的場景）

Amca, Arif Mithat, et al. "The effect of chalk on the finger–hold friction coefficient in rock climbing." Sports biomechanics 11.4 (2012): 473-479.

到了2016年，科學家想使用肌電圖去評估肌肉施力的狀況；這次找了19名受試者，結果發現有沒有粉，在摩擦力、施力、肌肉活動上，都沒有明顯差異！

但是，有粉的狀況下可以掛在上面比較久⋯⋯

Kilgas, Matthew A., et al. "The effect of magnesium carbonate (chalk) on geometric entropy, force, and electromyography during rock climbing." Journal of applied biomechanics 32.6 (2016): 553-557.

〖小結〗看起來應該還是有用啦，雖然不能單純用增加摩擦力的理由來解釋，不過，看那麼多選手都在用，而且研究中說可以掛在上面比較久，就值得自己去體會一下。

＊ 同場加映：

1. 有人會問到用這些鎂粉，會不會對身體有什麼危害呀？

基本上不會，主要的刺激性是在呼吸道，在通風換氣好的狀況下是沒問題的；這也是為什麼有些室內攀岩場會規定不能用粉狀的，而要使用液狀或膏狀的碳酸鎂。

那如果吃進去呢？其實平常也吃了很多食品級的碳酸鎂了，會放在像胡椒粉或咖哩粉中，去保持乾燥，避免結塊。（不過攀岩用的會不會使用到工業級的，就不一定了⋯⋯可能會有比較多的雜質，用餐前還是先洗乾淨吧。）

2. 疫情之下，去攀岩場館安全嗎？

重點還是通風換氣和容額管控啦。我是覺得很多岩館有挑高，通風換氣反而比較好。

至於有些人會擔心之前新聞常報導新冠肺炎病毒可以在物品表面存在很久還有傳染力，那岩館不可能每個人爬過都消毒一遍怎麼辦？

其實每個人上去之前先做好手部消毒，下來之後也再手部清消一遍就可以大大降低風險了。

另外，今年6月研究指出，雖然冠狀病毒在塑膠上可以存在48小時，但使用攀岩粉，病毒在上面的活性就會大幅下降。（這樣不就讓人更想用了嗎⋯⋯哈哈哈）

Owen, Lucy, Katie Laird, and Maitreyi Shivkumar. "The effect of climbing chalk powder on the infectivity of human coronavirus OC43." Letters in Applied Microbiology 72.6 (2021): 725-729.

最後，傍晚還有奧運運動攀登，女子組的決賽⋯⋯大家用力看起來！

皆様こんにちは！！

今日は嬉しい報告になります😊

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