今晚見！ Vios bolt on turbo ep5

[English written about my FA recently] I made the first ascent of a new route on the west face of Mara-Iwa, which had been a project line for a long time in Mt. Ogawa. Mt. Ogawa has a long history in Japan, an area of granite that developed with the beginning of Japanese free-climbing history in the 80's. It is often referred to as the "Yosemite of Japan". Mara-Iwa is a spire-shaped rock about 70 meters long and representative of Mt. Ogawa. It is a very smooth granite face with almost no features like a crack. "JECC Route" (5.10d), the first pitch I climbed this time, was free climbed in 1984. But, it has an anchor in the middle of the wall and its upper part remained unclimbed for more than 35 years. I had a long communicated with the line, and it took me four years from my first encounter to complete it. After resolving all the sequences with top rope, I hand hammered all the bolts like Yosemite. It took me a season to get to red-point, which is a lot of time in total, even though we were able to finish faster than we expected for the project. But thanks to that, I found two possible lines on the route, as you can see in the photo. (Line A and Line B) In bolting, I considered how to bolt on that line, but to leave "freedom" on the route and for the sake of those who follow, so I did not bolt on either line, but bolted at the junction and confluence of the respective lines. Hence, the grade is also a wide 5.14+. (Both A and B have almost same difficulty.) There is a line and there is a grade, but we climb a line, not grade on rock climbing. And I'm not an all-out denier of bolts. However, I am very serious about what the bolt means to climbing and how it affects climbing ethics and culture. "Bolt is something that takes freedom away from climbing." I think that's what the bolts on the route are meant to do. The emotions that arise when you look up at a brand new wall with no leftovers or anything else, the creation of drawing your own line is an infinitely free act. - ...Following the comment in this post.

久違的錄音室 Bass tracking day @ Lights Up Studio! 輕鬆愜意的搭完四首歌 for @sangpuy_1115 桑布伊的新專輯～ 還和 @linkshan 聊音樂到凌晨😂😂😂 感謝 @tzu.long @howardtay9 @nine_g_1102 Studio bass Tracking day — With my trusty @foderaguitars Olive Emperor 5 bolt-on Purple Heart Imperial Elite 5 #lightsupstudio #桑布伊 #basstracking #fodera #foderabass #foderaemperor #foderaimperial5elite #studiolife #musicianslife #quarantinelife