這是阿培曾經在我巴褲的書裡面寫的，這文章是阿培本身養狗的經驗，對每個養狗的人都有很大的幫助，希望大家有時間可以把它看完，我翻譯成英文讓大家看：
Apei wrote many things into my Baku book. Mainly how to raise dogs, his life experience with dogs and about dog breeds. Its very useful information so please take a look. I translated it into English for everyone to read.

想要養全世界最大的狗，所有的大狗養過一輪，最後情定獒犬。
I wanted to raise all the big dogs available around the world. I wanted to takes turns raising all the big dogs, but I fell for Mastiff.

我從小就有個心願，要養全世界最大的狗。十幾歲開始工作，慢慢把大狗養了一輪：紐波利頓獒犬、大丹、高加索——最後才把重心放在西藏獒犬上。
Ever since when I was very young, I had a dream to raise all the big dogs available throughout the world. I started working at a very young age. Over the years, I had owned a Neapolitan Mastiff, Great Dane, Caucasian Shepherd, and finally now I am totally focused on taking care of my Tibetan Mastiff.

其實每種狗都可愛，只是養著養著，慢慢摸索出自己最喜歡的樣子——
To be honest, no matter what the breed, each dog is cute & lovable in its own way. Having own so many dogs, I slowly figured out what I like the most.

比方紐波利頓，嘴巴皮垂皺加上毛短，吃完東西不馬上擦乾淨，很容易過敏有皮膚病，照養上很費功夫。
Neapolitan Mastiff, for example, has saggy faces and very short hair. If you don’t clean him up after a meal, the dog can very easily have allergic reactions or skin diseases. It’s quite a chore taking care of this breed of dogs.

大丹漂亮修長，但我更喜歡粗勇的體型。
Great Danes are beautiful and usually possesses a lengthy body, but I like ones with a thicker and wider body.

高加索犬算是最貼近我期待的，但是，高加索犬野性比較強，對其他小狗比較不友善。
Caucasian Shepherd is perhaps a breed that is closest to my ideal type. However, shepherds are more primitive, they are not that friendly to small dogs.

至於西藏獒犬，牠忠實、對小孩、女人和小型動物又溫和——尤其是冬天，西藏獒犬換上一身長披毛，站出來威風凜凜、霸氣十足。
As far as Tibetan Mastiff goes, they are loyal, and gentle around kids, women, and other small animals. Especially during winter, a Tibetan Mastiff would change into a long fur coat, appearing so confident and proud, as if everything else is beneath them.
養到西藏獒犬，我心中就有「中」的感覺——所以一路養到現在。
When I got to owning a Tibetan Mastiff, that’s when my heart and mind went: “This is the one!” And so… I have been raising one ever since.

之前養的每隻狗，我都是養到牠們老死——大型狗的平均壽命比中小型犬還要短的許多，大概10年到15年。
All the dogs I had previously, I have always had them until they passed away peacefully in my arms due to old age. The average lifespan of large-sized dogs are usually a lot shorter than small-sized dogs. 10 -15 years, I would say, is probably the max.

要駕馭大型狗，教法是重點。我常跟人說，「狗的主人要有霸氣，要比狗兇」。從小規矩就要訂下——如果主人希望能帶大狗去散步，一定要從小帶牠出門，讓牠習慣走在你腿旁邊，讓牠早早社會化。
To manage a large-sized dog, the key is on teaching. I often tell my friends: “As a dog owner you have to be dominant, you have to be more dominant than your dog.” Show ‘em who’s the boss in the house, so to speak lol. As a dog owner if you wish to take your large dog out for a walk, you have to start taking them for a walk when they are still very small, let them get used to walking alongside you, this is basically to socialize them.

你帶領狗去散步，不是牠帶你去散步——讓牠們見多視廣，狗就不會有初見陌生事物激動暴衝的時候。
Remember tho, you are taking them for a walk, not the other way around. You have to let them see more, let them become familiarize with what’s happening on the outside. This way, it will lessen the occurrence of your dog having violent reactions to unfamiliar or unknown objects.

基本上，除非是生病，要不然狗咬人，都是基於「恐懼」。牠怕主人被攻擊，所以擺出戰鬥姿態——當然，社會化不足或主人威嚴感比較差的狗，就比較容易出在驚慌狀態下而暴衝咬人。
Basically, unless your dog is sick, a dog only starts biting people out of “fear.” They fear that his owner will be attacked, that’s why he goes into “combat mode.” Of course, a dog that is less socialized or a dog with a less dominant owner will more likely become violent (including biting) when they feel threatened or panicking.

這部分是主人的問題，比較不是狗狗本身的問題。改善了狗主人的牽法與教育狗的方式，狗的暴衝、易怒問題就可以得到改善。
This is the owner’s fault, and not on the dog. Once you improve upon the way you walk the dog and educate the dog the right away, the dog’s violent behavior and violent tendencies will show an improvement.

獒犬還有一個別稱，「栓犬」。讓獒犬待在同個地方大概30分鐘，牠就會覺得那是牠地盤，開始會對經過的路人兇，這點要特別注意。
Mastiff also goes by another name, “guardian dogs.” If you let a Mastiff stay in one place for over 30 minutes, he’ll think that this place is his place, his territory, and will starting defending it by being aggressive to passerby, this is something to be aware of.

我最常被問到的，獒犬吃很多三餐費用很高吧？
The question that I was asked the most is… “Mastiffs eat a lot, don’t they? So you must’ve spend a lot of dog food, right?”

我自己對狗比較捨得，讓牠吃好——牛肉全雞羊肉，但是也不一定要跟我一樣餵法。讓牠們吃飽，有時間去跑跑步，偶爾洗一下澡，牠們就很開心了。
I am more catering to my dog, that’s for sure. I’ll let him eat the good stuff --- beef, full chicken, lamb… But you don’t have to do it like me, tho, just feed him regularly so your dog is not hungry. If you have the time, take him for a walk or a jog, or bathe him, he is going to be really really happy if you do so.

最後要提醒的是，大型犬因為身體重腳的負擔大，狗主人最好是把牠們養在不滑的地板上，跟，6個月以前的小狗，髖關節還沒發育完全，不要讓牠們大量跑跳。這兩點注意一下，加上每天帶花時間帶牠們去散步運動，這樣就能保持牠們四隻腳的健康，減少很多腿部問題。
Lastly, I want remind everyone, as far as large dogs go, because of their huge physique they have tons of pressure on their feet, so it’s best for a dog owner to raise a large-sized dog on a non-slippery floor. Also, for a dog that is not yet 6 months old, don’t let the dog do too much jumping and running because his hip joint isn’t fully developed yet. That’s two things you should keep in mind. So as long as you take the time to walk your dog and do a bit of exercise, you’ll be able to keep their legs healthy, which will reduce a lot of the dog’s leg problems.

不管大狗小狗，牠們都是我們的家人，養了，就好好照顧牠一輩子。最後還是那句話.如何對待如何回報.
No matter big or small, a dog is family. If you got one, please take care of him/her for the rest of its life. Lastly, just want to say, You reap what you sow.

Mestia︳格魯吉亞
歐洲海拔最高有人長居村落烏樹故里Ushguli的前哨站

我在這裡搭了這旅程的首趟順風車，在雪山迷路，被神犬救助。

抵達Mestia的時候是早上9點多，找了家不錯的民宿下榻。民宿老闆娘請我喝了杯咖啡，還有幾塊當地巧克力，再搭配兩片從阿塞拜疆超市花了0.30歐元買了一個禮拜卻還沒吃完的麵包🍞當早餐，時間來到早上11點。

民宿老闆建議我要徒步到冰川的話還得趕快出發。來回20幾公里的路，至少需要6個小時的徒步，還不包括迷路時間。

又稍微花了點時間整裝，開始沿著河流走到登山口。路途中正巧一輛汽車經過，索性豎起拇指，

「Chalaadi Glacier？」
「Yes! 」

就這樣開啟了我此行的首趟順風車。嗯，時間不早了，如果能夠省下2小時的腳程直接到登山口，可以花更多的時間欣賞冰川，何不搭順風車呢？

正好來的是克羅斯西亞人跟德國人，懂英文😏要知道在格魯吉亞很難找到可以暢聊英文的人，所以一路有說有笑的來到了登山口，總算不用Solo徒步雪山了。

畢竟，上一趟雪山徒步已經兩年前的事，而且當時亞丁積雪不深，難度不高。如果要回溯到上一趟在積雪那麼厚的情況下徒步，大概就是五年前在紐西蘭的Mt Cook了。

是的，積雪差不多是到我的膝蓋，幾乎掩蓋了徒步路線、石頭，甚至河流。也就是說隨時有可能踩空、踩滑、陷入雪堆里，甚至迷路。

所以我們就這樣迷路了一個多小時，一直找不到前往冰川的路😂直到兩位歐洲的朋友都放棄了，而我依舊堅持繼續前進...

我的直覺是從山坡上的森林路繞過去，但好多路都被雪覆蓋，森林裡都是樹，也很難判斷方向，所以他們判斷應該是要沿著河流前進才是，但部分河流被雪覆蓋，確實也不好前進。

「3點以前如果沒找到路我就放棄吧。晚上我會給你們報個平安的。」我們就這樣在河川交換FB，分道揚鑣。

留下我孤軍奮戰。

再攀越了幾塊石頭以後，我還是覺得沿著河川走太危險，畢竟一踩空就掉進河流，手機相機護照被水侵溼損壞是一回事，衣服吸了水凍傷身體可不好受。

於是便爬上了山坡，繼續往森林前進。當然，爬坡的時候也滑了幾跤，耗了好多體力才上到森林去，然後終於...

看到人了！！！

是四位來自烏克蘭的女登山客，前面還跟了一條黑狗...

「He is our guide! 」

其中一個女孩兒指著那條狗，說是牠領著她們進森林的，而她們也正好要去冰川。

於是我也加入她們的行列，跟著這條神犬走，還真的就走到冰川了！

不可思議啊...

導盲犬我是有聽過，但登山導航犬倒是第一次遇到，而且這不是黃金還是拉布拉多啊！

就這樣，我們在雪山拍了好多張照片，全都靠我的私人攝影師兼旅伴--腳架哥掌鏡。可惜，在下山的時候，才發現到腳架哥似乎沒跟下山😥😥

由於才剛離開十分鐘，所以我想試試回到山上去找回腳架，但又不好意思讓她們等我，於是又跟她們交換了FB，說我會自行下山，到了以後再用FB報平安。

當然，要在白茫茫的一片雪地中尋找小不啦嘰的腳架，天空還飄著雪❄，最終還是放棄了。

是啊，已經下午四點了，再不下山的話就天黑了，我可不想在入夜后的森林迷路啊！於是只好作罷，趁天黑前下山了。

回程的路其實都很順利，只不過在這時段很難找到順風車回Mestia，所以只好靠雙腳走完10幾公里路，回到民宿已經是傍晚7點了。

靠著一杯咖啡、兩片吐司、三塊巧克力的熱量徒步近8個小時，真的就是Exhausted啊！當下感覺真的可以吞下一頭牛。

Anyway，就這樣結束了狀況連連的一天，雖然丟失腳架讓我難過了一陣子（接下來的旅程不能拍假掰照了😭），但回想起來，這才是我要的旅程啊！

是的，總是要有一些插曲，讓你的旅程變得不一樣，更有回憶

#一個人旅行從來不是一個人
#有載你一程的人 #有陪你登山的背包客
#有指引你穿越雪森林的導航神犬

#mestia #格魯吉亞
#高加索叁山國行

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