#宜蘭行第三天

最後一天走的是一個抓緊時間趕快玩的節奏😆由於第一天從東北角來到宜蘭時都在下大雨，所以凱莉爸決定回台中時再走一次東北角，把沒玩到的點再踩一次💪於是最後一天行程我們都在跟雨神賽跑，最短30秒最長20分鐘，只要沒雨我們就下車玩，整個好刺激啊🤣

退房後第一個點，我們來到雨天備案的 #武淵水火同源 🔥這是一個天然景觀加上人工設計的小點，但因為有 #廣大不用曬太陽的草皮、 #大大的碗公溜滑梯，以及還有一個 #水不深可以下水玩的水池，所以孩子們整個超喜歡玩到不想走，大人也剛好可以在這裡放空一下🤣

幫孩子們放完電後我妹也來和我們會合，她這位孕婦和我的妹夫一早先跑去 #礁溪魚吃腳腳 ，聽她形容總共可以有12種魚幫妳去角質按摩很特別，但由於阿木我很怕癢又怕動物碰身體就放棄同行了😄接著我們就往東北到 #烏石港吃海鮮看漁船，小公主在午餐後還帶了一堆吃完的牛奶貝蚌殼回家，說要給老師同學看超級大的蛤蜊殼，真不知道她的老師同學們看到會什麼反應🤣

但不得不說烏石港好像已經沒有阿木印象中的熱鬧，或許是因為平日，這天生鮮魚攤只剩下一攤在叫賣，其他都是販賣魚鬆蜜餞食品的，而樓上的快炒餐廳也只有一家營業，其餘都已經關門，所以最後我們只好走到魚港外圍去用餐，沒有逗留太久😅

吃完午餐後我們一路往北來到 #福隆海水浴場，從這時原本陰涼的天氣開始不穩定的下起雨來，原本想要下車去觀賞沙雕、給孩子們踏踏沙，沒想到在停好車後開始下起大雨，為了避免孩子們感冒於是棄點😓讓小公主失望的一直在車上向天公伯祈求好天氣🙏後來還真的被她求到短暫的雨縫，讓他們姐弟兩可以在猴硐附近玩一回沙😁

越往北雨勢也越來越明顯，後來來到 #水湳洞 山腳下，順勢往山上爬一點到了 #黃金瀑布 ，下車才不到十秒大雨立刻追上我們，趕緊留個影後又匆匆上車 ，下山時順道拍了白天版的 #十三層遺址 ，小公主一直說十三層遺址好像大城堡🤣接著我們順著雨勢一路開向基隆，過然雨都的天氣依舊不美麗，這時大人小孩都已經疲憊，於是就決定一路開回台中吃晚餐，結束我們三天的宜蘭小度假😊

回到家幫孩子們洗澡時，我和她們討論起這三天的一切，問問她們最喜歡哪個部分？果然愛享受的小公主最愛在飯店泡湯，她已經開始期待下次要住別家🥰而愛家的小王子沿襲他一路上的堅持，直接回答阿木我「最喜歡回家‼️」果然金窩銀窩都比不上他心中那個家窩🤣但事實上這三天，不管大人小孩我們都玩得好開心，期待下次的度假⛱️

味覺的記憶

上週五晚上，老友TL有意參與基隆正濱漁港漁會的改造計畫，邀我參與當晚的餐敘，並要我出點意見。老友約在正濱漁港旁的餐廳，點了西班牙海鮮飯、牛排等大餐，但相較於這些正餐，我更想讚美被稱為「淡菜(Mussels)」的黑貝海鮮。

淡菜又稱「簡仔」，曬乾之後也稱為蝴蝶乾。小時候，盛產在烏石港北邊的礁石上，但不知何時、何故滅種，如今已不可得。正濱漁港旁的淡菜，來自馬祖北竿，當年服役時，曾在北竿奉獻了18個月的青春，當然忘不了這一味。

童年時，媽媽做的油炸春捲最香，北宜公路中途站坪林溪邊的炸蝦餅，那可真是人間美味啊！年長了，高膽固醇的食品得有所節制，但美好的食物記憶，不時觸動心裡那股「巧遇」美食時難以抑制的衝動。

幾年前，跟夫人前往北海道旅行，終究是私人旅行，沒有壓力，涵館市場旁的「鮭魚卵飯」，油脂飽滿的鮭魚卵，配上北海道生產條件嚴苛的稻米，讓我齒頰留香，也讓我真正感受到「米香」，那是中年過後，有點人生閱歷，自然會有沉潛的心情來欣賞食物的原味之美！

台灣人，曾有過物資缺乏的年代，父執輩的長輩，也有人年輕時以蕃薯芊或醬油拌飯度日。為了證明自己已經豐衣足食，餐廳裡叫了一大桌吃飯的人比比皆是。現在，我告訴自己「少吃點」、「吃慢點」，讚美廚師，以及還願意跟你吃飯的家人、朋友，吃了什麼好料，也不一定要鉅細靡遺的介紹給臉書的朋友。不過，正濱漁港邊的餐廳真的不錯，何妨試試！

感謝🙏民視新聞台的報導

Time for Taiwan 2015-2016, Episode 20: Toucheng by Train
2015-2016年「台灣好好玩」第二十集： 搭火車到頭城

Transcript 文字稿:

Today we’re going to Wushi Port in Yilan where there’s a fantastic museum, seafood and a beach that surfers love.
今天我們要到宜蘭的烏石港。這裏有間很棒的博物館，海鮮，還有一個衝浪玩家非常喜歡的海灘。

I'm Michella. I grew up in the Silicon Valley and was a journalist in Taiwan for ten years. I like to try new things, play with new toys, and visit old places in a new way. I’m going to show you around the Taiwan that I know. I hope you’ll enjoy it as much as I do.
我是米雪拉，在美國矽谷長大，回來台灣當了十年的新聞工作者，喜歡嘗試新東西，玩新玩具，用新的方式體驗旅行。台灣好好玩，到底有多好玩，讓我和你分享。

To get to Wushi Port, take a train and get off at Toucheng. You can pay for your tickets by tagging on and off with an Easycard or iPass.
想要抵達烏石港，大家可以搭火車到頭城站，用悠遊卡或一卡通刷上刷下就好了。

This is Toucheng Station. Toucheng literally means “first city.” Between here and Taipei lies that, the Hsuehshan Mountain Range. This was the first city that was developed on this side of those mountains.
這裏是頭城站。「頭城」意指是「第一個城市」。這裏和台北之間隔著雪山山脈，這裏是從台北過來第一個被卡發的城鎮。

This is Wushi Port, the latest reincarnation of it, actually. The older and much smaller one is over there. Come on, I want to show you.
這裏是烏石港，最新的烏石港。舊烏石港比較小巧一點，就在那邊。

Wushi by the way means “black rock.” Those dark rocks in the middle of the old port over there is how this area got its name. And the funky looking building behind me, that’s the Lanyang Museum.
「烏石」顧名思義，是黑色石頭的意思。那幾顆從水裡面冒出來的黑石頭就是「烏石港」名字的由來。我的背後那棟長得很奇妙的建築物，就是蘭陽博物館。

The outline itself is really interesting. What do you think it looks like? A crashed spaceship? A mountain growing out of the ground? The architect, Kris Yao, wanted it to resemble the natural landscape around here - rocks that that jut diagonally out of the earth and the ocean.
光是輪廓就很有趣。大家覺得這長得像什麼呢？一艘墜落的幽浮？從地底下長出來的一座山？建築師姚仁喜希望它呼應這裏的自然景觀，看似從海裡和地裡斜斜突出的石頭。

The shape of the building and the big pool of water in front of it makes a really good picture. Looking at the building makes me feel like I’m hearing music. No, I’m not crazy. I love it!
這棟建築的形狀，還有前面的大水池讓這裏成為一個非常適合拍照的地方。看著看著，我覺得我好像聽見音樂了。我沒有發瘋，我就是好喜歡這個地方！

Kris Yao used 12 different materials for the facades. Each material represents one specific musical note. He mapped the score of Vivaldi’s “Four Seasons” to the facades of this building. I think it’s quite clever! And I love the space!
姚仁喜在牆面上用了12種不同的材質，每一個材質代表樂譜上一個音，姚仁喜將韋瓦第四季的樂章用這個方式表現在真個建築的外觀上。我覺得好聰明！而且我好喜歡這個空間喔！

The exhibits here are nicely presented too. In the main hall, you’ll learn about flora and fauna found in Yilan.
博物館裡展示品的陳列也做得很好，在主要的展示區可以認識宜蘭的動植物。

This is the scaly anteater. It has special meaning to me because my university’s mascot is the anteater! Zot zot.
這是只穿山甲，對我來說有特別的意義。我大學的吉祥物就是穿山甲。

There are displays on nature, culture, everyday life and lots of other things, like the farming and fishing industries.
這裏的展示範圍還涵蓋了自然，文化，日常生活，以及農漁業等議題。

This is a real fishing boat! A lot of the exhibits in this museum are interactive and that’s why I love it. Of course everything is really well laid out, too. There’s so much to learn if you slow down, look and think about what you’re looking at. Unfortunately, there’s just not enough time in one day, so I have to come back!
這是一艘真的漁船喔！這裏很多展示品都是互動式，我很喜歡這部份，我覺得整個規劃都很棒。如果慢下腳步去思考你正在看的東西，你會有很多很多收穫，也會發現花一天的時間都不夠，以後還要再來！

Where can you eat if you’re hungry? There’s a seafood market here.
肚子餓的話可以去哪裡吃飯呢？這裏有海鮮市場喔～

There’s fresh and processed seafood here. If you want, you can buy it fresh down here and go upstairs to the restaurant area and have it cooked for you. Of course if you would rather not personally give something, that’s still breathing, the death sentence, have the restaurant take care of everything - just go upstairs and order there, or to any of the other restaurants in the area.
這邊有生鮮也有加工過的海產。大家可以在一樓挑想吃的東西，然後請二樓幫忙代工。如果不想要有一種給魚兒們判死刑的感覺的話，就直接上二樓或附近餐廳，讓他們幫你解決。

This is tuna floss with chunks of tuna in it. It’s good for diabetics or for people who don't like sweet foods. No sugar added in here. Mm. I like!
這是鮪魚鬆。對糖尿病患和不喜歡甜食的人來說，應該不錯，沒有加糖。嗯，我喜歡！

Japanese people fresh fish raw. The Chinese like to steam it. Tasty steamed fish have to be really, really fresh.
新鮮的魚，日本人喜歡吃生的。華人喜歡吃蒸的。好吃的蒸魚一定要非常非常新鮮。

Wushi Port is also a big surfing spot. A lot of surfers in northern Taiwan like to come here. In fact, we bumped into one of our coworkers over there. I love it how there’s so much to do around here - there’s the beach, the museum, seafood, hiking, whale watching from Spring to Fall. Everything’s within walking distance, too. You should come!
烏石港也是個衝浪的好地方。很多住北部的衝浪愛好者都喜歡來這裡，我們剛才還碰到同事，也是來衝浪。這裏有好多可以玩的地方，有海灘，博物館，海產，步道，春天到秋天還能商鯨，而且好玩的地方都走路就能到。大家要來喔！

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Michella's notes 米雪拉的筆記：

We’ve been by Lanyang Museum quite a few times now, and this was the first time we actually got to go inside. It is a wonderful museum! The space is really beautiful (but if you want to enjoy it in peace, go right when they open). I really liked the displays and how they are from floor to ceiling, covering many different levels and aspects of life in Yilan, but they’re really easy to miss if you don’t know what you’re looking at and if no one is there to tell you the stories. There are audio and guided tours in English and Mandarin, I highly recommend them.
我們曾經經過蘭陽博物館好幾次，這是我們第一次進到裡面去，我覺得這地方好棒喔！我好喜歡它的空間，不過如果想要平靜的欣賞和享受，最好一開館就去。我很喜歡裡面從地板到天花板的展示，描述宜蘭的生活，生態，和文化，不過這些東西沒有人解說，很容易就錯過，所以我建議利用語音導覽，或者報名人員導覽，才會錯過精彩的故事。

The seafood market is kind of fun to walk through. There are two stands that sell fresh seafood, all the other ones sell processed seafood and most allow you to taste before you buy, which is fun and nice. There are several restaurants upstairs that sell and cook fresh seafood, but the one we went to is diagonally across the street from the seafood market building. The name of the place is 章魚哥 Mr Octopus (or brother octopus) and I liked how it seemed cleaner than the restaurants in the market. The food there is quite good!
海鮮市場蠻好玩的，生鮮的有兩攤，其他都是加工食品，大部分都可以讓你試吃再買。樓上有好幾家海鮮餐廳，不過我們拍攝的那家在市場斜對面，叫做章魚哥，菜好吃，感覺也蠻乾淨的。

If the weather’s nice, you can take a walk on the beach. If you’re a surfer, you might really like it there. If you’re here during the right season, you can even go out to Turtle Island or go whale watching. Toucheng is a tiny town, but Wushi Port has a pretty big place in my heart.
天氣好的話可以到海邊走走，你如果會衝浪的話，搞不好會很喜歡。對的季節來，還可以去龜山島，去賞鯨。頭城是個小小的地方，不過我真的蠻喜歡這裏的。

You should come!

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Links 連結：

Taiwan Railways Administration 台鐵： http://www.railway.gov.tw/en/

Lanyang Museum 蘭陽博物館： http://www.lym.gov.tw/eng/en_service_4.asp

Mr/Brother octopus restaurant 章魚哥生猛海鮮：
03 987 9318
烏石港路1鄰47號

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Accessories 配件：
Jacket: kotipesä http://www.kotipesa.com
Watch: Martian摩絢錶 http://www.martianwatches.com.tw
Shoes: Rucoline http://rucoline.com/it/
Backpack: 癮科技 ispack https://shop.cool3c.com/taxonomy/term/2704

Gear 器材：
楔石攝影怪兵器 KEYSTONE Koziro Cinema Mount 手機拍攝： http://www.kphoto.com.tw/front/bin/ptdetail.phtml…
UAV 空拍機: 3DR Solo http://www.3drobotics.com